Keenan SMD Chardonnay '22

From a cool, fog-kissed block at 1,600 ft elevation, this Chardonnay redefines mountain whites. Pale gold with silver reflections, it offers a nervy nose of lemon zest, struck flint, toasted brioche, and a whisper of jasmine from wild yeast fermentation. The palate is tightly coiled like a spring—flavors of green apple skin, raw almond, and crushed oyster shell are framed by acidity so electric (pH 3.28) it makes your teeth tingle (Vinous 96 pts). Aged 14 months in 40% new François Frères barrels, it’s built for the long haul (2027–2037). Serve at 50°F with uni pasta or Hog Island Kumamoto oysters.